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Fashion & War in Popular Culture
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Price £17, $22.50
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ISBN 9781841507514
Paperback 200 pages
230 x 170 mm
Published March 2014
Imprint: Intellect
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Edited by Denise N. Rall
Chapter Titles     |      Comments

Aside from the occasional nod to epaulettes or use of camouflage, war and fashion seem to be strange partners. Not so, argue the contributors to this book, who connect military industrial practices as well as military dress to textile and clothing in new ways. For instance, the book includes a series of commentaries on the impact of military dress in the airline industry, in illustrated wartime comics, and even considers today’s muscled soldier’s body as a new type of uniform. Elsewhere, the effects of conquest introduce a new set of postcolonial aesthetics as military and colonial regimes disrupt local textile production and garment making. In another chapter, it is argued that textiles and fashion are important because they reflect a core practice, one that bridges textile artists and designers in an expressive, creative, and deeply physical way to matters of cultural significance. And the book concludes by calling the very mode of 'military chic' into ethical question.

The premier text to illustrate the impact of war on textiles, bodies, costume, art, and design, Fashion & War in Popular Culture will be warmly welcomed by scholars of fashion design and theory, historians of fashion, and those interested in theories of warfare and military science.


Chapter titles
Contextualizing fashion and war within popular culture
Jennifer Craik
Denise N. Rall
Section I: The military in popular culture
Chapter 1: Representation of female wartime bravery in Australia’s Wanda the War Girl and Jane at War from the UK
Jane Chapman
Chapter 2: Fashionable fascism: Cinematic images of the Nazi before and after 9/11
Kylee M. Hartman-Warren
Chapter 3: Branding the muscled male body as military costume
Heather Smith and Richard Gehrmann
Section II: Fashion and the military
Chapter 4: In the service of clothes: Elsa Schiaparelli and the war experience
Annita Boyd
Chapter 5: The discipline of appearance: Military style and Australian flight hostess uniforms 1930-1964
Prudence Black
Chapter 6: Models, medals, and the use of military emblems in fashion
Amanda Laugesen
Section III: Framing youth fashion, textile artworks and postcolonial costume in the context of conflict
Chapter 7: Battle dressed – clothing the criminal, or the horror of the ‘hoodie’ in Britain
Joanne Turney
Chapter 8: Dutch wax and display: London and the art of Yinka Shonibare
Davinia Gregory
Chapter 9: Costume and conquest: Introducing a proximity framework for post-war impacts on textile and fashion
Denise N. Rall
Afterword: The military in contemporary fashion
Denise N. Rall
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