The latest issue of Clothing Cultures 4.1 is now available!

Intellect is delighted to announce that the new issue of Clothing Cultures (4.1) is now available. This is a special issue of CC that focuses on Wardrobe Studies.

For more information about this issue please click here or email


Articles within this issue include (partial list):


Gertrude Savile’s green damask: A case study of clothing reuse and alteration in eighteenth-century England

Authors: Carolyn Dowdell

Page Start: 29


In February 1745, English gentlewoman Gertrude Savile paid the large sum of almost 24 pounds (not including labour) for a gold-trimmed green damask sack dress with matching petticoat. The opulence of these materials and their high cost would have made for a rich, formal ensemble. Despite regular acquisitions of other fine textiles and clothes, the green damask reappeared in Savile’s account books numerous times over the ensuing decade. Thanks to her meticulous account-keeping, we find that Savile’s gown was retrimmed and made over multiple times and that leftover materials were used to fashion additional items such as pairs of shoes. The obvious motive behind these activities is thrift; however, by the time the green damask entered her life, she was a woman of significant independent means. And from the loose narrative, or lifestory, of this ensemble, several additional thematic threads may be teased: the practical interaction between women and fashion during the eighteenth century; the changing functions and status of garments within an individual’s wardrobe; aspects of personal taste and attachment to garments and even relationships and marks of affection between women.


Encouraging more efficient wardrobes through recirculation of idle apparel

Authors: Kendra Lapolla and Elizabeth B. N. Sanders

Page Start: 45


Consumption and waste of clothing has dramatically increased in recent decades due to the acceleration of changing fashion trends. As a result of this expanding textile waste, this study explores the closet as a space for waste and further examines how creativity might assist in the reuse and recirculation of idle clothing in wardrobes. One way to encourage more efficient apparel reuse may be through effective recirculation of stored clothing that is no longer worn, yet remains a part of the wardrobe. By adopting participatory design research methods, specifically using stories and storytelling, the researchers aimed to explore how female consumers might use their creativity to reuse/recirculate clothing in their closets that they no longer wear. The data from this study illustrates the possible reasons idle clothing contributes to textile waste. Boredom with the same outfits, lack of time and disorganisation are contributing to participants feeling less creative in coming up with new outfit ideas to best utilise their existing garments. Further, new strategies for the recirculation of idle apparel are discussed.


Clothing reuse: The potential in informal exchange

Authors: Kirsi Laitala and Ingun Grimstad Klepp

Page Start: 61


Reuse organised by non-profit and commercial actors is a sustainability strategy that recently received a lot of attention. This article discusses the question: what do we know about the amount of clothes that circulate outside the pecuniary markets? And is this amount increasing or declining? The questions are answered based on quantitative material from Norway. Almost twice as many had received used clothing as those who had bought used clothing, and our material do not indicate that this is declining. At the same time, 59 per cent of Norwegian adults had neither received nor bought used clothing for themselves during the past two years. For children, inheritance is very common and the younger the children are, the more they inherit. The amount of the private clothing exchange is greater than the formal market in Norway. Therefore, when the goal is a more sustainable clothing consumption, we need to include the parts of consumption that are not only related to money.


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