The new issue of International Journal of Fashion Studies (4.1) is now available!

Intellect is delighted to announce that the new issue of the International Journal of Fashion Studies (4.1) is now available. This edition of INFS includes a special Open Space section on Black Fashion Studies, focused on the idea of black style.


For more information about this issue please click here or email


Articles within this issue include (partial list):


The revolution in our pants: Hipsters, race and American fashion

Authors: Duane Gilson

Page Start: 35


This article explores the contemporary jogger pant by looking back to the mid-twentieth-century coding of hipness through material consumption, racial mastery and urbanity, primarily through Malcolm X’s musing on zoot suits, but also attending to adjacent literary texts: Gwendolyn Brooks’ poem ‘We Real Cool’ and Norman Mailer’s essay ‘The white negro: Superficial reflections on the hipster’. It finally returns to the present day to read the contemporary jogger alongside the midcentury zoot suit, gesturing to ways in which hipster appropriation is both problematic, because it assumes as authentic cultural products of whiteness that actually borrow from blackness, and full of potential, because in even quietly citing its borrowing of black and feminine forms, it may serve to destabilise white masculinity.


Young people’s experiences of fashion modelling: An explanatory phenomenological study

Authors: Daniel J. Carr and Jenny Mercer

Page Start: 51


Research into fashion modelling within the field of psychology remains sparse. Empirical studies do exist, but they are rare and exhibit a tendency to pathologise models, and provide only a superficial insight into this career. Little is known about who a fashion model really is; what a young person who models experiences in their careers; or how fashion models make sense of their role. With this in mind, the current study seeks to explore the lived experience of young people who are fashion models. Three participants offered experiential accounts of modelling in the fashion industry, and Interpretative Phenomenological Analysis (IPA) revealed superordinate themes: ‘Growth and Development’, ‘Changes in Self-Perception’ and ‘A Job? Or a Way of Life?’ Change was found to be an integral part of the participants’ experiences, which led to both positive and negative developmental outcomes, including a self-reported growth in confidence and maturity, yet a potentially more self-critical view of one’s appearance. The role seemed to be an all-encompassing lifestyle rather than a job, and it is argued that modelling at a young age may act as a catalyst for a transition into adulthood. This study is exploratory in nature but provides an initial insight into the experiences of fashion modelling. The discussion identifies ways in which cognate sub-disciplines of psychology may contribute to this area of research, thus developing and extending further the psychological literature base in the field of fashion studies.


Fashion watches: The emergence of accessory makers as intermediaries in the fashion system

Authors: Pierre-Yves Donzé

Page Start: 69


The objective of this article is to analyse the historical conditions of the emergence of accessory makers as intermediaries in the fashion system, with the example of the watch company Fossil Inc. More specifically, it sheds light on the twofold evolution of watchmaking (towards global value chains centred on Hong Kong) and of the fashion industries (towards the need to enlarge profits through accessorization), which has led to an increase of newcomers to these industries. This article approaches its investigation from the perspective of business history. The analysis of Fossil since 1984 is based on corporate annual reports and offers a survey of the organisational evolution of the watch and fashion industries, in order to shed light on the strategy and decision-making of this company. In the context of the discussion about the role of intermediaries in creating and legitimising fashion, this contribution offers new evidence about understudied actors in the industry, i.e. accessory makers. It shows that firms like Fossil are not only passive suppliers of branded accessories, but also contribute to the growth of accessory sales – and consequently, to the strengthening of fashion brands.


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