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The latest issue of Clothing Cultures 4.1 is now available!

Intellect is delighted to announce that the new issue of Clothing Cultures (4.1) is now available. This is a special issue of CC that focuses on Wardrobe Studies.

For more information about this issue please click here or email katy@intellectbooks.com.

 

Articles within this issue include (partial list):

 

Gertrude Savile’s green damask: A case study of clothing reuse and alteration in eighteenth-century England

Authors: Carolyn Dowdell

Page Start: 29

 

In February 1745, English gentlewoman Gertrude Savile paid the large sum of almost 24 pounds (not including labour) for a gold-trimmed green damask sack dress with matching petticoat. The opulence of these materials and their high cost would have made for a rich, formal ensemble. Despite regular acquisitions of other fine textiles and clothes, the green damask reappeared in Savile’s account books numerous times over the ensuing decade. Thanks to her meticulous account-keeping, we find that Savile’s gown was retrimmed and made over multiple times and that leftover materials were used to fashion additional items such as pairs of shoes. The obvious motive behind these activities is thrift; however, by the time the green damask entered her life, she was a woman of significant independent means. And from the loose narrative, or lifestory, of this ensemble, several additional thematic threads may be teased: the practical interaction between women and fashion during the eighteenth century; the changing functions and status of garments within an individual’s wardrobe; aspects of personal taste and attachment to garments and even relationships and marks of affection between women.

 

Encouraging more efficient wardrobes through recirculation of idle apparel

Authors: Kendra Lapolla and Elizabeth B. N. Sanders

Page Start: 45

 

Consumption and waste of clothing has dramatically increased in recent decades due to the acceleration of changing fashion trends. As a result of this expanding textile waste, this study explores the closet as a space for waste and further examines how creativity might assist in the reuse and recirculation of idle clothing in wardrobes. One way to encourage more efficient apparel reuse may be through effective recirculation of stored clothing that is no longer worn, yet remains a part of the wardrobe. By adopting participatory design research methods, specifically using stories and storytelling, the researchers aimed to explore how female consumers might use their creativity to reuse/recirculate clothing in their closets that they no longer wear. The data from this study illustrates the possible reasons idle clothing contributes to textile waste. Boredom with the same outfits, lack of time and disorganisation are contributing to participants feeling less creative in coming up with new outfit ideas to best utilise their existing garments. Further, new strategies for the recirculation of idle apparel are discussed.

 

Clothing reuse: The potential in informal exchange

Authors: Kirsi Laitala and Ingun Grimstad Klepp

Page Start: 61

 

Reuse organised by non-profit and commercial actors is a sustainability strategy that recently received a lot of attention. This article discusses the question: what do we know about the amount of clothes that circulate outside the pecuniary markets? And is this amount increasing or declining? The questions are answered based on quantitative material from Norway. Almost twice as many had received used clothing as those who had bought used clothing, and our material do not indicate that this is declining. At the same time, 59 per cent of Norwegian adults had neither received nor bought used clothing for themselves during the past two years. For children, inheritance is very common and the younger the children are, the more they inherit. The amount of the private clothing exchange is greater than the formal market in Norway. Therefore, when the goal is a more sustainable clothing consumption, we need to include the parts of consumption that are not only related to money.

 

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Drawing: Research, Theory & Practice 2:1 is now available!

Intellect is delighted to announce that the new issue of Drawing: Research, Theory & Practice (2:1) is now available.

For more information about this issue please click here or email katy@intellectbooks.com.

 

Articles within this issue include (partial list):

 

Envelopes of time: Drawing Boulez’s third milieu

Authors: Juan Jose Guerra-Valiente

Page Start: 41

 

French composer Pierre Boulez first formulated the concepts of the ‘smooth and the striated’ in his musical oeuvre as an expression of his concerns regarding the interaction between continuous and discontinuous musical parameters referred to time and space. Later on, Deleuze and Guattari further established new applications for these ideas relating them to a wide range of non-musical purposes. However, several questions arise such as how the smooth-striated communicate, transform and remain different; is there a third space that intermingles with the system ‘smooth-striated’? And in this instance, how could it be visualized? In order to give answers to these questions, this article explores a third milieu, also introduced by Boulez: the ‘fixed’ space-time that would allow the perception of the communication between the ‘smooth and the striated’. Additionally, this article argues that there is a strong link between the ‘fixed’ and the Deleuzian diagrams, through which the musical concepts could be visualized, presenting a series of drawings as case studies developed using analogical and digital techniques.

Drawing to read architectural heritage

Authors: Serra Akboy-İlk

Page Start: 97

Architectural documentation is a contextual study that aims to record patterns of lives and rudiments of civilization embedded in the built environment. Documenters collect measurements from historic surfaces and then transcribe these field data into 2D measured drawings that include existing architectural, material and structural conditions. Although the documentation activities seem very straightforward, with a series of actions to portray the architectural heritage through graphical records, the process itself is an interpretive account of the historic structure, which documenters thickly describe in the architectural context. The act of seeing, observing, interpreting and then capturing the essence of cultural heritage offers a methodical process, which carries significant qualities similar to that of thick description widely used in ethnographic fieldwork. Thinking between architectural documentation as an enquiry of thick description and measured drawings as the product of an interpretive account of what the historic structure denotes, this article seeks to acquire an understanding of drawing in architectural documentation, focusing on engagement with cultural heritage.

Exploring drawing as a generative act: Articulating thought processes in the context of interdisciplinary approaches to drawing pedagogy

Authors: Asmita Sarkar

Page Start: 157

 

This article offers an approach to drawing pedagogy and presents case studies of drawings produced by students from Srishti Institute of Art, Design and Technology, Bangalore, South India. The project aims to examine whether the conceptual and subjective aspects of drawing can be combined with contextual reading. Students were instructed to draw pictures inspired by texts related to cognitive psychology, anthropology, literature and philosophy. Their whimsical and speculative drawings incorporated conceptual elements from the texts beyond objective representation, demonstrating the influence of interdisciplinary course content on drawing. The results provide new insights into debates of visual literacy and drawing pedagogy.

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New issue of Dance, Movement & Spiritualities 3.1&2 – out now!

Intellect is thrilled to announce that the new issue of Dance, Movement & Spiritualities (3.1&2) is now available.


For more information about this issue please click here or email katy@intellectbooks.com.


Articles within this issue include (partial list):


Katherine Mansfield and the dance of life

Authors: Keren Chiaroni

Page Start: 11


This article explores the links between dance and spirituality as experienced by writer Katherine Mansfield in the last months of her life (she died in France in January 1923). Dance played a central role in Georges Gurdjieff’s Institute for the Harmonious Development of Man, established at the Le Prieuré of Fontainebleau-Avon in 1922. Mansfield had been searching for some time for a new way of being-in-the-world, and the ritualised movements she observed at the Institute seemed to hold the key to her spiritual renewal. Through dance she thus discovered what philosopher Hans Jonas has called ‘the dynamic connection of all things’. Using the insights offered by Jonas and French philosophers Renaud Barbaras and Georges Didi-Huberman, the author aims to place Mansfield’s quest for ‘the new world within’ in the context of the ongoing human quest for authenticity and mind/body unity.


Reconnecting to the feminine: Transformative effects of Sensual Movement and Dance

Authors: Lisa Fasullo, John Lurquin and Gerard Bodeker

Page Start: 69


Dance is documented to produce substantive neurophysiological, psychological and quality-of-life benefits. Adding to that research we document the therapeutic effects of Sensual Movement and Dance in restoring women to a state of wholeness, enhanced self-expression and a general sense of ease. Specifically, we report on the physical, psychological, emotional and spiritual findings of an eight-week pilot research study. Informing the design of the pilot are reports over a ten-year period by women participants in a Sensual Movement and Dance programme that indicate consistent growth in self-confidence, reduction in stress, marked decrease in levels of self-consciousness, and improvements in women’s senses of autonomy and overall quality of life. In the pilot study, most participants also reported improvements in emotional regulation and a decrease in anxiety and depression. According to study participants, more than simply talking about sensuality, women want to feel more of it in themselves and in their lives.


My spirit asks to live in sensation

Authors: Marianne Adams

Page Start: 107

 

This qualitative, arts-based research article explores modes of physical daily practice, somatic writing and an emerging sense of spirituality within an autoethnographic framework. The research depicts the evolution of regular and varied body practices documented by somatic journaling and creative writing. The realisation that spirituality can grow from an array of therapeutic and intentional somatic practices evolved from a more narrowly defined dance background that previously focused primarily on artistic, technical standards. Perspectives from contemporary dance training, the Pilates method, somatic writing, the GYROKINESIS method and Authentic Movement are the primary approaches explored. Other observations from moving within the natural world provide the lens for explorations on the role of the witness, acceptance, compassion and forgiveness. Data gathered from mindful, contemplative body-based practices led to an examination of intrinsic spiritual values. As a female dance academic, the emerging awareness of embodied physical spirituality also probes questions regarding the nature of dance scholarship, ageing in dance and the concept of somatic sustainability.

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Journal of Contemporary Painting 3.1&2 – now available

Intellect is thrilled to announce that the new issue of the Journal of Contemporary Painting (3.1&2) is now available.

At the heart of of many of the articles and artworks in this special edition of JCP is the notion of freedom – and the need to challenge received ideas, form, content and ideologies.

For more information about this issue please click here or email katy@intellectbooks.com.  

Articles within this issue include (partial list):

 

Painting as commitment

Authors: Sunil Manghani

Page Start: 55

 

Jean-Paul Sartre opens What is Literature? with the comment, ‘No, we do not want to “commit” painting, sculpture, and music “too”, or at least not in the same way. And why would we want to?’ Sartre’s idea of the committed writer was a dominant and evocative account of intellectuals of the Left in the immediate postwar period, but was superseded with the arrival of ‘theory’ from Althusser onwards, and with post-structuralist notions fully decentring the subject. What might this mean for the painter? Taking an existential account of painting as its starting point, the article offers a reappraisal of the anti-aesthetic and postmodern debates of the 1980s, and suggests the need to re-situate painting as commitment in itself. Rather than simply the need to place painting within wider social networks, it is the inherent appeal to freedom that remains significant about the medium.

(Bad) faith in painting (?): Critically re-evaluating the significance of Yu Youhan’s political pop series

Authors: Paul Gladston

Page Start: 137

This article seeks to critically re-evaluate a series of so-called ‘Political Pop’ paintings by the Shanghai-based painter Yu Youhan in relation to existentialist conceptions of good and bad faith as well as recent ethically related reassertions of oppositional criticality within the international art world. It will be argued that any description of Yu’s Political Pop paintings as having been produced definitively in either good or bad faith overlooks a persistent and indeterminate enmeshing of cultural production with locally dominant discourses and practices within the People’s Republic of China (PRC) as well those prevailing internationally that plays deconstructively across the boundary between conscious acceptance and rejection of freedom of choice and, by extension, the supposed limits of oppositional criticality.

Painting is believing

Authors: Paul O’Kane

Page Start: 195

With help from seventeenth-century religious philosopher Blaise Pascal, art history, artists On Kawara and Lee Ufan, this article sets out a contemporary scenario before digging progressively deeper into questions of ‘painting and commitment’. The article attempts to make a case that painting and painters inform or extend our understanding of commitment per se while clarifying our understanding of relationships – casual and otherwise – between art, belief and commitment. The article asserts the idea that the very process of painting begets belief, commitment and faith, and ultimately suggests that painting, by means of its special affinity with images, might be the basis of our particularisation and organisation of knowledge, as well as being considered ur religion.

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International Journal of Food Design 2.1 – out now!

Intellect is delighted to announce that the new issue of International Journal of Food Design (2.1) is now available.

 

This special issue of IJFD is dedicated to examining and promoting education for and from Food Design. This issue is interested in recording different experiences, ideas and strategies of what and how Food Design is taught, learned and, most of all, approached in different educational contexts and formats.

 

For more information about this issue, please click here or email katy@intellectbooks.com.

 

Articles within this issue include (partial list):

 

Food, research, design: What can food studies bring to food design education?

Authors: Fabio Parasecoli

Page Start: 15

As the presence and visibility of food design grows in academia, synergies are particularly promising with food studies, which promotes and practises the analysis of cultural, social and political issues concerning the production, distribution and consumption of food in its material and cultural aspects, as well as in its social and political implications. The analytical tools developed in food studies have the potential to inform and integrate the practical applications that food design focuses on, whilst food design methods can help food studies scholars to include applied approaches in their work. The article presents three cases in which food studies analysis and methods were introduced in educational formats otherwise focussed – explicitly or not explicitly – on design.

 

Designing urban agriculture education for social justice: Radical innovation through Farm School NYC

Authors: Kristin Reynolds

Page Start: 45

The aim of this article is to explore how food and gastronomy can be integrated within the discipline of design. The first part of the study explores the parallel between gastronomy and design from two perspectives: as system and as sciences. The second part focuses on the special context of Catalonia, where the work of the chef Ferran Adrià has radically transformed gastronomy and, as a consequence, created a network of institutions, designers and studios centered on food.

The last part describes several projects carried out at ELISAVA, which were based on three areas of study: understanding food as a system on the basis of its life cycle and its semantic value; understanding the sensory dimension of food as a material in the context of the Mediterranean culture and studying the creative process of design in parallel with the creative process of gastronomy.

 

Food as a system and a material for the creative process in design education

Authors: Raffaella Perrone and Albert Fuster

Page Start: 65

The aim of this article is to explore how food and gastronomy can be integrated within the discipline of design. The first part of the study explores the parallel between gastronomy and design from two perspectives: as system and as sciences. The second part focuses on the special context of Catalonia, where the work of the chef Ferran Adrià has radically transformed gastronomy and, as a consequence, created a network of institutions, designers and studios centred on food. The last part describes several projects carried out at ELISAVA, which were based on three areas of study: understanding food as a system on the basis of its life cycle and its semantic value; understanding the sensory dimension of food as a material in the context of the Mediterranean culture and studying the creative process of design in parallel with the creative process of gastronomy.

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Open Access for Music and Levels of Narration in Film

Intellect is delighted to announce that the electronic version of Guido Heldt’s Music and Levels of Narration in Film (2013) is now available for free download. To access the ePDF please click on this link http://www.oapen.org/search?identifier=625671

 

Music and Levels of Narration in Film is the first book-length study of the narratology of film music and is an indispensable resource for anyone researching or studying film music or film narratology. It surveys the so far piecemeal discussion of narratological concepts in film music studies and tries to (cautiously) systematize, expand and refine them with reference to ideas from general narratology and film narratology (including contributions from German-language literature less widely known in Anglophone scholarship). The book goes beyond the current focus of film music studies on the distinction between diegetic and non-diegetic music (music understood to be or not to be part of the storyworld of a film) and takes into account different levels of narration: from the extrafictional to ‘focalizations’ of subjectivity and music’s many and complex movements between them. The conceptual toolkit proposed in the first part of the book is put to the text in a series of case studies: of numbers in film musicals; of music and sound in horror films; and of music and narrative structures in, among others, films by Sergio Leone, The Truman ShowBreakfast at Tiffany’s and Far from Heaven.

 

Guido Heldt is a lecturer in music at the University of Bristol.

 

The electronic version of this book is freely available thanks to the support of libraries working with Knowledge Unlatched (knowledgeunlatched.org). KU is a collaborative initiative designed to make high quality books Open Access for the public good. 

 

Intellect is pleased to be continuing to work with KU and we will soon be making another of our titles Open Access, David H. Fleming’s Unbecoming Cinema: Unsettling Encounters with Ethical Event Films (2017). 

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