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Studies in Costume & Performance 2.1 – out now!

Intellect is delighted to announce that the new issue of Studies in Costume & Performance (2.1) is now available.

 

For more information about this issue please click here or email katy@intellectbooks.com.

 

Articles within this issue include (partial list):

 

Hand in Glove: Reflections on a performed costume exhibition and the stories behind the garments

Authors: Mary Kate Connolly

Page Start: 9

 

This article details a conversation with seminal choreographer Lea Anderson, following her performed exhibition, Hand in Glove, which was staged at the V&A Museum, London, in April 2016. Hand in Glove featured over 300 costumes and accessories from the archives of Anderson’s two renowned contemporary dance companies, The Cholmondeleys and The Featherstonehaughs. These companies played a prominent role in the evolution of British contemporary dance from the 1980s until their dissolution in 2011. Costume and design have long been utilized as transformative elements within Anderson’s work, giving rise to characteristic intertextual layering, blurring of boundaries and the destabilization of hetero-normative representations of the dancing body. Hand in Glove occupied the Raphael Gallery at the V&A from 22 to 24 April 2016 with vignettes from ten of Anderson’s works performed by students from London Contemporary Dance School. The conversation with Anderson outlines the process involved in the mounting of Hand in Glove alongside accounts of her early works, and the influence which design and costume exert in her choreography. Anderson describes her collaborations with designers, in particular Sandy Powell and Simon Vincenzi, and the ways in which her work with costume has evolved over time. Reflections on the implications of the exhibition itself (as a rare opportunity to view costumes performed live within a gallery space) are thus placed within the wider context of her choreographic practice and visual influences.

 

Brides and widows: Iconic dress and identity in Howard Barker’s costumes

Authors: Lara Maleen Kipp

Page Start: 27

 

One of the strongest recurring motifs in the work of contemporary British playwright Howard Barker is women’s marital status: brides and widows abound in his work. Their status as such is often crucially configured, but also subverted through their costumes (in a Western cultural context). This article considers the central role that brides and widows play in a variety of Barker’s dramatic texts and identifies some core working principles with regard to his use of costume. It explores the notion of the iconic garment, as proposed by Hannah in 2014, and its influence on these characters’ identities. Drawing on aesthetic discourse, in particular that of the sublime, I analyse how Barker proposes a reconsideration of stable subject identity through these recognizable, yet ambiguous and unstable female figures.

 

Australia on display: Tracing an Australian identity through the evolving costume design for The Australian Ballet’s production The Display

Authors: Emily Collett and Roger Alsop

Page Start: 61

 

The topic of costume for performance as a marker of national identity is in its infancy within the context of theatre studies. As the means by which an audience relates to character and narrative, costume is central to our understanding of identity. Here, we consider costume for performance, specifically for dance, in Australia as an indicator of the developing national identity, using the 1964, 1983 and 2012 Australian Ballet productions of The Display as a case study. The original 1964 costumes were credited to expatriate artist Sidney Nolan, the 1983 version was designed by Sydney fashion designer Adele Weiss and the 2012 remount utilized photographs, written documentation and memories to recreate the original 1964 costumes. By examining the three sets of costumes, we aim to demonstrate how a study of the costumed body offers insights into Australia’s evolving national character.

 

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New issue of Journal of Contemporary Chinese Art 4.1 - out now!

Intellect is delighted to announce that the new issue of the Journal of Contemporary Chinese Art (4.1) is now available.

 

For more information about this issue please click here or email katy@intellectbooks.com.

 

Articles within this issue include (partial list):

 

New Silk Road artworlds: The art of hybrid and the marginal at the Xinjiang Contemporary Art Museum

Authors: Darren Byler

Page Start: 27

 

Since the early 2000s many second-tier Chinese cities have begun to cultivate contemporary art scenes. Ürümchi, the capital city of the north-west province of Xinjiang, is no exception. Following Xi Jinping’s announcement of the New Silk Road Economic Belt in 2013, a group of artists from the city received support from the Xinjiang Cultural Ministry to transform a decommissioned government building into the Xinjiang Contemporary Art Museum. Many of the exhibitions hosted in the space focus not only on themes of Silk Road revitalisation but also representations of migration, frontier marginalisation and the spectacle of rapid capitalist development. One outcome of this is the emergence of contemporary art rooted in the ‘hybrid’ traditions of Uyghur artists. In addition, a school of Han migrant documentary photography and figurative painting, which the art critic, curator and painter Zeng Qunkai has called ‘black and white marginality’, has begun to emerge.

 

Between global models and local resources: Building private art museums in Shanghai’s West Bund

Authors: Giulia Zennaro

Page Start: 61

 

Increasingly, the establishment of museums has developed as a strategy for improving local attractiveness and economy. Recently, in China, art museums – often in private form – have witnessed a rapid development. However, despite enhanced governmental support, some of these new art endeavours still face challenges in their operation. I argue that a major factor contributing to these obstacles can be found in the relation between local governments’ ambitions to design museums similarly to other world-renowned ones (isomorphism) and the availability of local resources and expertise. In particular, my case study on the Long Museum and the Yuz Museum (in the Shanghai West Bund) shows how focusing on the achievement of globally favoured aesthetic standards vis-à-vis local resources to enhance the credibility of these new undertakings (legitimacy) has occasionally obstructed organisational efficiency, specifically in this case, of the museums’ function to store and display art.

 

From context to subject: The poetics and politics of creating and exhibiting artworks in the National Museum of China

Authors: Tongyun Yin

Page Start: 101

 

Prior to its renovation and reopening in 2011, the National Museum of China, originally the Museum of Chinese History and the Museum of Chinese Revolution sharing the same building structure, has been the official trustee and the authoritative voice of Chinese history since 1949. However, in the past five years, the Museum has significantly shifted its focus from history to art as the pace of the nation’s socioeconomic transition accelerated, a tendency summarised in its mission to transform the Museum into the “largest art and history museum” in the world. Based on the studies of the exhibitions held at the Museum in the past few decades, this paper examines the transformation of the exhibitionary practices of the NMC first through the lens of artworks created by official commissions in Socialist China and by reconstructing cultural relics into ‘Chinese art’ in post-Socialist China. Then, it analyses the altering interpretative narratives and presentational approaches used to exhibit artworks against the nation’s rapidly changing social-cultural and economic contexts. The article aims to analyse the changing roles played by art to foster and uphold shifting discourses to justify the Party-State’s political legitimation and promote cultural nationalism for nation-building. It further reveals how power, politics and ideology operate in exhibitions in contemporary China.

 

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Queer Studies in Media & Popular Culture 2.1 - out now!

Intellect is delighted to announce that the new issue of Queer Studies in Media & Popular Culture (2.1) is now available. This special edition of QSMPC focusses upon queer nostalgia and queer histories.

 

For more information about this issue please click here or email katy@intellectbooks.com.

 

Articles within this issue (partial list):

 

A fantastic fabrication of Weimar Berlin: Queer nostalgia, timeless memories and surreal spatiality in the film Bent

Authors: Gilad Padva

Page Start: 167

 

The extravagant opening sequence of the film Bent directed by Sean Mathias (1997) fabricates a promiscuous gay venue in the mythic 1930s Weimar Berlin. While Greta’s club is completely fictional, the megastar Mick Jagger’s drag show in this sequence queerly transcends spatiality and temporality. Greta/Jagger not only anticipates the persecution and annihilation of gay men in Nazi Germany but also elegizes modern queer subcultures and their often destructive self-indulgence. This sequence is a flamboyant return to the pastness of queer past that aesthetically represents a radically different queer contemporariness. The screening of queer nostalgia in this decadent opening sequence creates an allegorical space, a psychedelic modern Babylon or a sort of uncanny ‘thirdspace’, a physical and mental space at the same time. The fantastic venue is interrelated with displacement of cultural production, reinvention of collective memory, queer melancholy and, particularly, camp performativity and a new vision of nostalgia as drag show.

 

Of love and longing: Queer nostalgia in Carol

Authors: Allain Daigle

Page Start: 199

 

This article discusses nostalgia and sensation in Carol (Haynes, 2015), a contemporary melodrama about a lesbian romance in the 1950s. While Carol returns its romance to a closeted past, it presents a nostalgic view of queer desire that is neither wistful nor tragic. Drawing on Tamara de Szegheo Lang’s theory of critical nostalgia and Elizabeth Freeman’s theory of longing, this article argues that Carol’s nostalgic form, particularly its use of framing, texture and colour, unsettles linear experiences of time associated with looking at the past. Carol’s conspicuous formalism intertwines the phenomena and immediacy of temporal experience with the multiple experiences of historical desire, and the film’s aesthetics productively complicate its compliance with a larger narrative of linear progress. The interaction of framing, texture and colour in Carol engage ways of seeing that are critically full, rather than indulgently melancholic, of female desire in the 1950s.

 

Blending in and standing out: Storytelling and genre in the LGBT biopics Milk and Pedro

Authors: Jonathan Lupo

Page Start: 227

 

This article considers the deployment of self-reflexive storytelling strategies by the titular protagonists in the LGBT biopics Milk (Van Sant, 2008) and Pedro (Oceano, 2008). Written by Dustin Lance Black, both films utilize the formal and narrative conventions as well as the historiographic features of the biopic genre to legitimize its subjects in contemporary culture. Furthermore, Harvey Milk and Pedro Zamora foreground the practice and political utility of storytelling as they assert control over their tragic yet ultimately hopeful legacies. Through a textual analysis of the films, the article examines how the films intersect with the LGBT biopic as a subgenre of the contemporary biographical film and as popular queer history.

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The new issue of International Journal of Fashion Studies (4.1) is now available!

Intellect is delighted to announce that the new issue of the International Journal of Fashion Studies (4.1) is now available. This edition of INFS includes a special Open Space section on Black Fashion Studies, focused on the idea of black style.

 

For more information about this issue please click here or email katy@intellectbooks.com.

 

Articles within this issue include (partial list):

 

The revolution in our pants: Hipsters, race and American fashion

Authors: Duane Gilson

Page Start: 35

 

This article explores the contemporary jogger pant by looking back to the mid-twentieth-century coding of hipness through material consumption, racial mastery and urbanity, primarily through Malcolm X’s musing on zoot suits, but also attending to adjacent literary texts: Gwendolyn Brooks’ poem ‘We Real Cool’ and Norman Mailer’s essay ‘The white negro: Superficial reflections on the hipster’. It finally returns to the present day to read the contemporary jogger alongside the midcentury zoot suit, gesturing to ways in which hipster appropriation is both problematic, because it assumes as authentic cultural products of whiteness that actually borrow from blackness, and full of potential, because in even quietly citing its borrowing of black and feminine forms, it may serve to destabilise white masculinity.

 

Young people’s experiences of fashion modelling: An explanatory phenomenological study

Authors: Daniel J. Carr and Jenny Mercer

Page Start: 51

 

Research into fashion modelling within the field of psychology remains sparse. Empirical studies do exist, but they are rare and exhibit a tendency to pathologise models, and provide only a superficial insight into this career. Little is known about who a fashion model really is; what a young person who models experiences in their careers; or how fashion models make sense of their role. With this in mind, the current study seeks to explore the lived experience of young people who are fashion models. Three participants offered experiential accounts of modelling in the fashion industry, and Interpretative Phenomenological Analysis (IPA) revealed superordinate themes: ‘Growth and Development’, ‘Changes in Self-Perception’ and ‘A Job? Or a Way of Life?’ Change was found to be an integral part of the participants’ experiences, which led to both positive and negative developmental outcomes, including a self-reported growth in confidence and maturity, yet a potentially more self-critical view of one’s appearance. The role seemed to be an all-encompassing lifestyle rather than a job, and it is argued that modelling at a young age may act as a catalyst for a transition into adulthood. This study is exploratory in nature but provides an initial insight into the experiences of fashion modelling. The discussion identifies ways in which cognate sub-disciplines of psychology may contribute to this area of research, thus developing and extending further the psychological literature base in the field of fashion studies.

 

Fashion watches: The emergence of accessory makers as intermediaries in the fashion system

Authors: Pierre-Yves Donzé

Page Start: 69

 

The objective of this article is to analyse the historical conditions of the emergence of accessory makers as intermediaries in the fashion system, with the example of the watch company Fossil Inc. More specifically, it sheds light on the twofold evolution of watchmaking (towards global value chains centred on Hong Kong) and of the fashion industries (towards the need to enlarge profits through accessorization), which has led to an increase of newcomers to these industries. This article approaches its investigation from the perspective of business history. The analysis of Fossil since 1984 is based on corporate annual reports and offers a survey of the organisational evolution of the watch and fashion industries, in order to shed light on the strategy and decision-making of this company. In the context of the discussion about the role of intermediaries in creating and legitimising fashion, this contribution offers new evidence about understudied actors in the industry, i.e. accessory makers. It shows that firms like Fossil are not only passive suppliers of branded accessories, but also contribute to the growth of accessory sales – and consequently, to the strengthening of fashion brands.

 

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Gold Open Access – 'Theorizing government communication with regard to the Dutch nature policy'

Intellect is thrilled to announce that the article ‘Theorizing government communication with regard to the Dutch nature policy’, from Empedocles: European Journal for the Philosophy of Communication 8.1, has been granted Gold Open Access and is now available for free download: http://www.ingentaconnect.com/contentone/intellect/ejpc/2017/00000008/00000001/art00008.

Read more Posted by Katy Dalli at 10:52 (0) comments
The latest issue of the Journal of Design, Business & Society (3.1) is now available!

Intellect is delighted to announce that the new issue of the Journal of Design, Business & Society (3.1) is now available.

 

For more information about this issue please click here or email katy@intellectbooks.com.

 

Articles within this issue include (partial list):

 

Redesigning the Concept of Money: A Service Design Perspective on Complementary Currency Systems

Authors: Ida Telalbasic

Page Start: 21

 

The current failures in income distribution among communities, social entrepreneurs and start-up founders result from deficit of money for accessing goods and services. However, it is increasingly recognised that money has the potential to be redesigned in order to serve a different purpose and to adapt to the emerging paradigm of the collaborative economy. Within this context, this article presents a study aimed to explore complementary currency systems as resilient strategies. This is done by adopting a service design perspective to analyse case studies from developing and developed economies. Both contexts are investigated in order to identify whether the case studies are founded by individuals, communities or governments.

 

Design-Intensive Start-Ups: A New Application Field for Design Thinking?

Authors: Cabirio Cautela, Lucia Rampino, Sara Colombo and Giuliano Simonelli

Page Start: 45

 

This article analyses a new phenomenon that has until now been poorly researched both in entrepreneurial and design-related literature, namely start-ups that focus on design as the primary source for their development (i.e. design-intensive start-ups, or DIS). Two main questions underpin the study, which is explorative in nature. Firstly, how do DIS differ from new technology start-ups (NTS) in terms of critical dimensions for development? Secondly, do DIS use design in a specific way? A multiple case study protocol was adopted to investigate these two questions. Results show that DIS not only differ from NTS with respect to several core dimensions, but they also differ in terms of overall new venture creation logic. The theoretical and practical implications of these findings for design thinking studies are discussed.

 

Sacred Service: The Use of ‘Sacred Theory’ in Service Design

Authors: Ted Matthews

Page Start: 67

 

Whilst attention has been given to the sacred in consumer behaviour, often highlighting its potential for meaningful experiences and customer loyalty, little research has been undertaken which investigates how such experiences might be designed for. This article describes a new service design approach that marries material from sacred theory and the tools of service design with the aim of designing for sacred service experiences.

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2017-2018 Recipients of Sharpe-Walentas Studio Program Announced

The Sharpe-Walentas Studios, New York have announced their 2017-2018 artists including Sharon Louden author of Living and Sustaining a Creative Life and Artist as Culture Producer!

The programme selects artists from thousands of applicants and offers them 1 year rent free studio space and organises and annual open studio for the public each spring. 

Full information and article by Artfcity here.

 

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New issue of the Journal of Contemporary Chinese Art (3.3) - out now!

Intellect is delighted to announce that the new issue of the Journal of Contemporary Chinese Art (3.3) is now available.  

This special edition of JCCA includes an Editorial by outgoing Principal Editor Paul Gladston and is Guest Edited with introduction by Bo Zheng and Sohl Lee.

 

For more information about this issue please click here or email katy@intellectbooks.com.

 

Articles within this issue include (partial list):

 

Political ecology of art and architecture in Japan: 100 years ago and now

Authors: Eiko Honda

Page Start: 243

 

What does it mean to discuss ‘political ecology’ in art and architecture now in the East Asian context? Honda investigates this through the historiography of Japan, re-examined in the light of present-day practices of art and architecture. It will consider how alternative notions of ecology, art and architecture there became neglected about 100 years ago in the shadow of the society’s hurried western modernisation, and how their resurgence now may cast a new light on our contemporary crisis. Concurrently, it will provide a new theoretical reading of ‘socially engaged art’ that derives from buried intellectual currents of Japan, alternative to dominant Euro-American theories.

 

From Funan River to East Lake: Reflecting on environmental activism and public art in China

Authors: Huang Chen

Page Start: 315

 

This article makes a comparison between two environmental art projects: ‘Keepers of the Waters’ (1995), a public art festival aiming to raise public awareness about the pollution problems of the main river in Chengdu, and ‘Everyone’s East Lake’ (2010), a public call for art action in response to an incident of commercial development of an important lake in Wuhan. The early strategies and characteristics of environmental activism in China led to the success of the first art project, and the constrains were testified and confronted in the second project. This article will discuss the two projects in detail regarding their political stances, modes of participation and the use of artistic language. Chen suggests that an emerging ‘political engagement’ mode is more public and empowering than the ‘political innocence’ mode developed in the 1990s.

 

Naoya Hatakeyama and the photographic representation of post-tsunami landscapes in Japan

Authors: Marco Bohr

Page Start: 335

 

This article investigates the role that art photography of in relation to the earthquake and tsunami that hit Japan in March 2011. The article focuses on an ethical and moral debate that emerged amongst Japanese photographers who questioned how the disaster and its aftermath can be, or should, be represented in a photograph. At the forefront of this debate was the photographer Naoya Hatakeyama whose personal connection to the region turned him into a quasi spokesperson for his profession. Through a close reading of his photographic works, the article situates post-tsunami photography in relation to wider photographic trends in Japanese visual culture.

 

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The latest issue of Clothing Cultures 4.1 is now available!

Intellect is delighted to announce that the new issue of Clothing Cultures (4.1) is now available. This is a special issue of CC that focuses on Wardrobe Studies.

For more information about this issue please click here or email katy@intellectbooks.com.

 

Articles within this issue include (partial list):

 

Gertrude Savile’s green damask: A case study of clothing reuse and alteration in eighteenth-century England

Authors: Carolyn Dowdell

Page Start: 29

 

In February 1745, English gentlewoman Gertrude Savile paid the large sum of almost 24 pounds (not including labour) for a gold-trimmed green damask sack dress with matching petticoat. The opulence of these materials and their high cost would have made for a rich, formal ensemble. Despite regular acquisitions of other fine textiles and clothes, the green damask reappeared in Savile’s account books numerous times over the ensuing decade. Thanks to her meticulous account-keeping, we find that Savile’s gown was retrimmed and made over multiple times and that leftover materials were used to fashion additional items such as pairs of shoes. The obvious motive behind these activities is thrift; however, by the time the green damask entered her life, she was a woman of significant independent means. And from the loose narrative, or lifestory, of this ensemble, several additional thematic threads may be teased: the practical interaction between women and fashion during the eighteenth century; the changing functions and status of garments within an individual’s wardrobe; aspects of personal taste and attachment to garments and even relationships and marks of affection between women.

 

Encouraging more efficient wardrobes through recirculation of idle apparel

Authors: Kendra Lapolla and Elizabeth B. N. Sanders

Page Start: 45

 

Consumption and waste of clothing has dramatically increased in recent decades due to the acceleration of changing fashion trends. As a result of this expanding textile waste, this study explores the closet as a space for waste and further examines how creativity might assist in the reuse and recirculation of idle clothing in wardrobes. One way to encourage more efficient apparel reuse may be through effective recirculation of stored clothing that is no longer worn, yet remains a part of the wardrobe. By adopting participatory design research methods, specifically using stories and storytelling, the researchers aimed to explore how female consumers might use their creativity to reuse/recirculate clothing in their closets that they no longer wear. The data from this study illustrates the possible reasons idle clothing contributes to textile waste. Boredom with the same outfits, lack of time and disorganisation are contributing to participants feeling less creative in coming up with new outfit ideas to best utilise their existing garments. Further, new strategies for the recirculation of idle apparel are discussed.

 

Clothing reuse: The potential in informal exchange

Authors: Kirsi Laitala and Ingun Grimstad Klepp

Page Start: 61

 

Reuse organised by non-profit and commercial actors is a sustainability strategy that recently received a lot of attention. This article discusses the question: what do we know about the amount of clothes that circulate outside the pecuniary markets? And is this amount increasing or declining? The questions are answered based on quantitative material from Norway. Almost twice as many had received used clothing as those who had bought used clothing, and our material do not indicate that this is declining. At the same time, 59 per cent of Norwegian adults had neither received nor bought used clothing for themselves during the past two years. For children, inheritance is very common and the younger the children are, the more they inherit. The amount of the private clothing exchange is greater than the formal market in Norway. Therefore, when the goal is a more sustainable clothing consumption, we need to include the parts of consumption that are not only related to money.

 

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Drawing: Research, Theory & Practice 2:1 is now available!

Intellect is delighted to announce that the new issue of Drawing: Research, Theory & Practice (2:1) is now available.

For more information about this issue please click here or email katy@intellectbooks.com.

 

Articles within this issue include (partial list):

 

Envelopes of time: Drawing Boulez’s third milieu

Authors: Juan Jose Guerra-Valiente

Page Start: 41

 

French composer Pierre Boulez first formulated the concepts of the ‘smooth and the striated’ in his musical oeuvre as an expression of his concerns regarding the interaction between continuous and discontinuous musical parameters referred to time and space. Later on, Deleuze and Guattari further established new applications for these ideas relating them to a wide range of non-musical purposes. However, several questions arise such as how the smooth-striated communicate, transform and remain different; is there a third space that intermingles with the system ‘smooth-striated’? And in this instance, how could it be visualized? In order to give answers to these questions, this article explores a third milieu, also introduced by Boulez: the ‘fixed’ space-time that would allow the perception of the communication between the ‘smooth and the striated’. Additionally, this article argues that there is a strong link between the ‘fixed’ and the Deleuzian diagrams, through which the musical concepts could be visualized, presenting a series of drawings as case studies developed using analogical and digital techniques.

Drawing to read architectural heritage

Authors: Serra Akboy-İlk

Page Start: 97

Architectural documentation is a contextual study that aims to record patterns of lives and rudiments of civilization embedded in the built environment. Documenters collect measurements from historic surfaces and then transcribe these field data into 2D measured drawings that include existing architectural, material and structural conditions. Although the documentation activities seem very straightforward, with a series of actions to portray the architectural heritage through graphical records, the process itself is an interpretive account of the historic structure, which documenters thickly describe in the architectural context. The act of seeing, observing, interpreting and then capturing the essence of cultural heritage offers a methodical process, which carries significant qualities similar to that of thick description widely used in ethnographic fieldwork. Thinking between architectural documentation as an enquiry of thick description and measured drawings as the product of an interpretive account of what the historic structure denotes, this article seeks to acquire an understanding of drawing in architectural documentation, focusing on engagement with cultural heritage.

Exploring drawing as a generative act: Articulating thought processes in the context of interdisciplinary approaches to drawing pedagogy

Authors: Asmita Sarkar

Page Start: 157

 

This article offers an approach to drawing pedagogy and presents case studies of drawings produced by students from Srishti Institute of Art, Design and Technology, Bangalore, South India. The project aims to examine whether the conceptual and subjective aspects of drawing can be combined with contextual reading. Students were instructed to draw pictures inspired by texts related to cognitive psychology, anthropology, literature and philosophy. Their whimsical and speculative drawings incorporated conceptual elements from the texts beyond objective representation, demonstrating the influence of interdisciplinary course content on drawing. The results provide new insights into debates of visual literacy and drawing pedagogy.

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